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I remember that pain vividly.Years ago on my first trip to Hawaii I tried it on the north shore.After I finally figured out how to paddle it in a straight line and get out past the breakers.I sat on the board for quite a while watching these kids surf in..they made it look so easy.
I damn near drowned when I got sucked into the undertow.
Ugly,,glad there weren't video cameras back then!
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