I have used three full-featured open source CMSes on quite a few sites: PHP Nuke, Joomla, and Drupal.
Avoid PHP Nuke like the plague. It was my first experience with a CMS and a good learning experience, but it's basically run by teenage gamers.
Drupal is great. Very grassroots and easy to get under the hood. Extremely powerful themeing system. Lots of GPL'd modules and bridges with other software.
Joomla is also great. Slicker than Drupal, but can be a little more confusing... but you'll be able to do more without having to touch code. More commercial (as in not free) components than Drupal though, especially for the more complex ones. Way more templates available.
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