Originally Posted by bm bradley

if you are not shooting on the manual setting just leave the camera on 'auto ISO' pretty sure it will have one... shoot on 'p' with the flash up... not sure what canon calls 'program' I shoot nikons... maybe auto???

think maybe if you shoot auto with out the flash NOT up the shutter will go to slow causing motion blur... so I usually shoot on S priority or T for a canon guy if I'm fucking around... not less the 125th.

if you want to control your depth of field shoot on 'A' which is aperture... say you want a pic of buddy with the background oof (out of focus) go to A and set the F stop to 4 or 5, depending on your lens... 2.8 be best for sure... problem is kit glass isn't fast glass and it starts adding up buying fast glass... blah blah blash etc etc... (boring boring boring)

thing to do is fuck around with that app I posted a link to then try the stuff on your camera..... ISO is basically to add light, in situation of having plenty of light, shoot at 50-200 ISO, don;t worry about it... when you need light, bump the ISO up... I shoot at 3200-5000 ISO with out issue anytime I want/need too...

it's a confusing mess for sure... just been dealing with this crap on a daily basis for 15-16 years so eventually it starts to be workable even if it doesn't always make sense... I learned to think of it like this: 'light falls on the film' once I heard it put like that it started making more sense to me... so now I know there is a 'hole' which I control with size and how fast it opens and shuts to let 'light fall on the film'

photography is 'painting with light' the job of a photographer is to create interesting stories with light using composition and contrast. i. e. control of the shadows and highlights. so I see what the story is, control the fall of light.... not enough light, turn up the ISO or augment the light naturally or unnatrually... too much light: negative fill (pull back the light.)