Far-L for the win!!
3 times for me.. robbed at gunpoint twice. Once last year and they got my camera, the other time in the ghetto a guy had an Uzi. Having a gun to my face makes me smile lot more more now. The other time was at 18th street in Newport Beach during El Nino. The surf was over head and a freaky clean up set rolled in. I took a few waves on the head and got held under. Seemed like forever and I waved at the lifeguard to help. That's when I learned they dont help people with surfboards. Said my prayers looking up at these big walls coming at me. Stopped surfing anything over 12 feet, now if its 8 foot I'll stay on the beach and chill. I dont have anything to prove to anyone
