Photographers - super noob question, how to pick out poiant and shoot camera?
 

I have this old one from 10 years ago:
https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-c...ot-w180/specs/

People said that there are no important specs among cheap point and shoot, they said only f/ is what you can look for. The lower the better.

So I am looking that old one of mine has f/3.1-5.6.

What is n the market now, is:
https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-c...ot-w810/specs/
Which has f/3.5-6.5, which is higher than that of 10 year old camera.

Does that mean it would be even crapier? One would assume technologies went ahead from 10 years ago, not down :) Or was I misinformed about that f/ thing?

What other specs are important among point and shoot cameras?

Just trying to understand basics :pimp:1orglaugh

Canon T*i. Wherever they are at now; probably T8 or T9i.

Blonde proof, so easy to use and grow with

I am not a photographer and not willing to be, just need to snap a shot here and there once in a while point and shoot auto mode.

I am more curious to understand what specs are important, rather than get a recommendation for specific model :)

For example Canon ELPH 360 HS.
f/specs are 3.6-7.0.

Which is bigger (thus worse) than both of the cameras in my OP.
While actually ELPH 360 HS capturing WAAAAy better photos than those 2 sony.

So is it the other way around? Bigger f/ is better? Or f/ has nothing to do with image quality?

I have never heard anyone say they bought a particular camera because of the f stop.

I was mislead then.

I asked couple people, they both gave me this indicator as the most important spec in order to determine which is better (in terms of cheap point and shoots where specs are maybe less clear/different/all similar).

What specs would you say indicate which one (again, talking about low level point and shoot) is making better quality pictures?

Like if you had 2 camera specs, how would you try to determine which makes better quality photos auto mode? :)

important specs are related to end usage of the image. any camera on auto will 'point and shoot' first thing to consider is size. how many MP do you need? honestly, for most internet usage you really don't even need crisp focus, like facebook or twitter.

the F-stop is determined by the lens, the lower the F number' the more light will fall on the 'film' while the 'shutter' is open and also allows you to focus better.

so buy a mid-range camera body and put a high quality 50 mm 1.2 or 1.4 lens on it. then set the camera to 'P' and point and shoot... see?

The 10 best enthusiast DSLRs in 2017 | TechRadar

just make sure the pro glass is compatible with the body. some of the lower priced bodies won't drive focus on a lens...

https://www.slrlounge.com/buying-fir...ens-35mm-50mm/

Nikon 35mm 1.8 G vs 50mm 1.8 G: Bokeh, Tests | btobey.com

I have this bad boy... yeah, no shit!! and it is beyond belief..... whoa!!

https://www.adorama.com/us%20%20%20%...xoCud4QAvD_BwE


one more small tech thingy: 3.6-7 means the glass is 3.6 WIDE OPEN and closes to 7 on full zoom automatically, so the further you push in with the lens the 'darker' it gets.


I know a guy that uses this fucker for youtube videos

https://www.adorama.com/us%20%20%20%20936807.html
this fucker is 2.8-6*

it's the lens and yeah us shooters talk about that all the time, like if you ever heard me and Dean talking it would be boring as hell to you :2 cents:

I have enough experience that I would have many more factors to evaluate than you do at this point. see my other post

Ok, will you have few minutes to spare and indulge me by answering my specfic questions?

These are:

1.

My 10 year old https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-c...ot-w180/specs/
New one from same cybershot series: https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-c...ot-w810/specs/

I would assume new one should be better (as new and not 10+ year old tech), but which specs do suggest that it is better?
(forget about megapixels and zoom as these are not important for me)

How come f/ is worse in the new w810 comparing to w180? And is it bad that it is worse or no big deal

2.

Every review says that canon ixus 185 (ELPH 180) is better than sony w810 (specs link above)

Which specs would suggest that? Which specs would you look at?

3.

Same pair as in the question #2.

Some guy who used both compared:

"I'd say the canon. I've used the Sony, doesn't focus quick, takes blurry photo's and terrible in low light."

Which exactly spec is indicating these three things:
a) focus quickness
b) blurriness level
c) being better/worse in low light

Again, if you could answer specifically every question separately.

Thanks

will you have few minutes to spare and indulge me by answering my specfic questions?

These are:

1.

My 10 year old https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-c...ot-w180/specs/
New one from same cybershot series: https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-c...ot-w810/specs/

I would assume new one should be better (as new and not 10+ year old tech), but which specs do suggest that it is better?
(forget about megapixels as we are talking about picture quality, not the size, for me even 3mp is enough)?

How come f/ is worse in the new w810 comparing to w180?

------------ a new tech is going to be better, they close up the lenses to save money now, glass is expensive, light is expensive. now instead of better glass they add light electronically with 'faster iso' or gain in video


2.

Every review says that canon ixus 185 (ELPH 180) is better than sony w810 (specs link above)

Which specs would suggest that? Which specs would you look at?

------------ I have no idea, I haven't used a point in shoot camera since film. I would look at the glass and the highest 'ISO' + image size and video size and format

3.

Same pair as in the question #2.

Some guy who used both compared:

"I'd say the canon. I've used the Sony, doesn't focus quick, takes blurry photo's and terrible in low light."

Which exactly spec is indicating these three things:
a) focus quickness
b) blurriness level
c) being better/worse in low light

---------------- the reviews of the canon is what I would use, forget the specs, listen to the users. the bad reviews on the canon are from boobs, check them out.... :2 cents:



Again, if you could answer specifically every question separately.

focusing ability is based on the number of pixels used in detecting contrast. on the more advanced camera, it will say, not on these cameras. blurriness is from shake or lack of focus. do this, when you pick up a new camera send it to the factory, tell them its fucked up and shoots out of focus a bit... and the flash is weird... then you'll have a camera with a better chance of not being fucked up by Monday hangovers or whatever. I SEND ALL MY NEWS LENSES IN.

For point and shoot (at porn parties for instance) higher continuous shooting frames per second (fps) is important. Faster writes to media, the quality and format of video in video modes matter when I buy a cheap camera.

Batteries matter. How are you going to be using it? Which is worse, running out of juice and having to recharge it for hours because of a proprietary battery that you can't get more of and have to charge by plugging the camera in, or having to speed $8.00 for nice powerful but standard AA lithium batteries you can replace on the fly?

Fancy cameras can help you get into venues where they want you to take pictures, a cheap consumer camera that fits easily into your pocket is great for taking newsworthy pics of subjects that would avoid an obvious TV crew.

well said, I shoot in different venues... were I to get a point and shoot I would get a fugi

Buy canon 200d/ EOS Rebel SL2 or use mobile .

Within any manufacturer's product line price is usually a decent indicator of quality (their more expensive camera will likely be better at focusing, etc.).

Avoid cameras which only have digital zooms.

Look into video, you probably want one that does at least 1080 HD.

Take an SD card to the store and take some test pictures, how sharp is the image at 100%, etc.

A smaller f number (closer to 1.0) means the shutter can be faster in a given situation (meaning less chance for blur from the subject moving or the camera shaking).

For most people anything from the name brands (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Olympus) would be fine.

I just ordered a Sony Alpha 6000 with a 16-50/3,5-5,6 for point and click

great stuff

This is all I use anymore: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Mirrorle...1DQPCEHBD&th=1

24MP, Fastest AF on the market, 425 AF points. 4k Video, etc. 5 point body and lens stabilization.

The 16-50mm covers pretty much everything I do.

Plus the 4/3 are just compact and nice to move around.

hey, thanks! I have so little experience with this market I'll look into it

Hey that's my camera!!! Awesome isn't it? Never going back I was a Canon guy before

What the fuck is a "poiant" and shoot camera?

Do you proofread any of your bullshit?

I think he's been posting drunk on Polish eggnog lately :2 cents:

uhhhh it's called a type-o, dicktits. Relax :321GFY

^^^ Pakistani is chill on typos but hardcore on Trump shitty ass tongue cleaning daily :thumbsup

It looks like the a5100 is a cheaper, dumbed-down point and shoot version that doesn't have as much freedom and complexity with settings. I've seen them for less than $400. I almost got one to replace an older consumer video camera I use, because I could maybe share lenses with Kitten Boheme who has an a6300, and these Sony mirrorless cameras seem to shoot fast. Last thing I want though is to be in competition with her for batteries.

I noticed that even crappy 60 eur android phones have f/ number at 2.0 while decent point and shoots (that shoot better than lets say iphone 6, but maybe not better than iphone 7) has f/ number at 3.2-6.9 or something. Aka WAY worse than super cheap crappy smartphone. Can we assume it is only because smartphone cameras are small and not so much of a shutter work time etc (speaking in noob language here, lol)

Lol, most people would even be ashamed to question/mention (even as an attack) that. As even to 3d grader it would be clear that it was a typo.
Libby brain though :thumbsup:1orglaugh

The f number is a mathematical ratio. Because cell phones have a really tiny sensor, it's possible to have decent f numbers on a cell phone as compared to a camera with its bigger sensor. However, the tiny cell phone sensor usually means poor resolution of fine detail and poor low light performance (lots of noise in the photo).