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dyna mo 06-02-2013 12:04 PM

that's a sharp example, robbie, what do you use for image stabilization?

Robbie 06-02-2013 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyna mo (Post 19651668)
that's a sharp example, robbie, what do you use for image stabilization?

Nothing.

It's just that damn simple. I did that video completely hand held.

Now, when I shoot our scenes...I use the Ready Rig with my camera mounted on it and microphones and a ring light (in addition to the banks of Kinos).

Here is the Ready Rig: http://www.albacamerasupport.com/

It's fucking amazing and worth every penny I paid for it.

dyna mo 06-02-2013 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19651671)
Nothing.

It's just that damn simple. I did that video completely hand held.

Now, when I shoot our scenes...I use the Ready Rig with my camera mounted on it and microphones and a ring light (in addition to the banks of Kinos).

Here is the Ready Rig: http://www.albacamerasupport.com/

It's fucking amazing and worth every penny I paid for it.

does your lens have image stabilization? you've got pretty stable hands? it's something i struggle with as i learn video.

Bman 06-02-2013 12:12 PM

Robbie,
That panasonic is not 1920 x 1080 and it uses the outdated DVC PROHD Codec.
The newer cameras use 1920 x 1080 res over 1440x 1080 and better codecs.
You will be surprised what you get out of even a $400 consumer hd camera...

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NaughtyRob (Post 19651647)
LOL is he still around? He may have fucked more girls than Ron Jeremy!

:1orglaugh:1orglaugh:1orglaugh

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19651665)
Hey Grapesoda....I switched over to my Canon EOS 5D MK 3 about a year ago.

I have my Panasonic HPX 170 HD vid camera gathering mothballs now.

There is no comparison in quality. And the only thing you need to do to have clear focus across the field is use a high F stop on the DSLR.

I shoot video in Aperture Priority mode. Set the F stop up super high. Then you can use the "Auto Focus" to bring the shutter speed to where it needs to be to compensate.
Then you are in focus. And there is no depth of field.

And between the lens and the DSLR chips...it will absolutely blow the vid cam away.

As an added bonus...you only need to have one camera on you. Switch it to Camera mode to shoot your stills. Then switch to Video mode to shoot the video.

This is shot with Canon 5D Mk3 with the settings the way I just described using nothing but the normal light in my bedroom (keep in mind it's already edited and compressed, the raw footage is even crisper):

The video is 3:51 long. Other than stopping to talk about dialogue...it took no time to shoot at all. I think we walked in the room and it was completed in about 6 minutes total.

No lighting set up, took about 2 seconds to focus. Just super easy.

And the "blacks" are really black. Which makes the contrast and coloring so much better than what any prosumer vid cam can ever achieve.

The only way to get to that quality would be to drop some serious, serious money on a RED...

Anyway, just wanted to chime in. A lot of "shooters" act all mysterious about shooting video with a DSLR.

But if you use one for just a few minutes you figure out how incredibly simple it is. And when I am shooting a real scene with it and using my kino flo lighting and taking my time to really get the shots...it's just fantastic.

thank you Robbie... and the audio?

Bman 06-02-2013 12:21 PM

here is a really good one for a few k the even have a 16mm one for $995

way better investment then a Red:2 cents:

http://www.blackmagicdesign.com/prod...ccinemacamera/

http://www.blackmagicdesign.com/medi...nemacamera.jpg

dyna mo 06-02-2013 12:27 PM

jeez, that tripod head prolly costs $500!

Robbie 06-02-2013 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grapesoda (Post 19651679)
thank you Robbie... and the audio?

On that I just used the "shitty" camera mic.

Doing a real scene: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...t_Shotgun.html

Robbie 06-02-2013 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyna mo (Post 19651673)
does your lens have image stabilization? you've got pretty stable hands? it's something i struggle with as i learn video.

No, it doesn't. This is the lens I used:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ephoto_EF.html

gabe100 06-02-2013 12:56 PM

i shot 60i forever because the look fit my needs. Now days. I shoot with a 5d and xf105 both manual mode. It's a work in progress and i don't have it quite 100% down. Super close though.

Both cameras at shutter of 60, FPS 30, zero ISO, and Fstop at 4 on the 5d and the XF always always changing between 2-4

The XF is badass but tricky and i don't have it quite mastered yet.

I'm not a great shooter but strangely it works for my site so it's fine.

One thing that's really cool. i've reached out in the past to 3 GFY veterans and all replied back fast with insight every single time. Jay Rock, Dean and Just Dave. Shouts to you guys...

Jay-Rock 06-02-2013 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grapesoda (Post 19651640)
might try that... shoot 60i now and 60th

60i is good for recording fast motion and slowing it down cranking the shutter up in 30p will give the effect that you see in alot of feature film fight scenes. Going to 125 is definitely going to cause you to lose an Fstop of light as mentioned previously in this thread. I wouldnt use it unless you are trying to shoot really fast movement or get really smooth slow motion. I shoot DSLR at 60 shutter speed in 30p and 50 shutter speed for 24p. Most of my big clients I have shot for prefer the raw footage in 30p. You can break the rules and go under or course to let more light in but be careful about motion blur if you have fast moving subjects. I tend to crank the ISO up as far as 1600 on the 5D Mark III & shoot with a higher FSTOP to get more depth of field. I only go under 5.6 if my subject isn't moving around to much. Rack focusing constantly is a pain. Shoot at a high ISO and crank it to f8 if you can for a more forgiving focus area.

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19651687)
On that I just used the "shitty" camera mic.

Doing a real scene: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...t_Shotgun.html

you record audio straight to the camera?

Robbie 06-02-2013 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grapesoda (Post 19651717)
you record audio straight to the camera?

Yep, it doesn't get much simpler.

One camera, one rig all on a compact flash card.

It makes life so much simpler. Especially for me...I no longer have to set my video rig down, disconnect myself from the power cord that goes from my belt batter to my onboard ring light and remove my headphones and then pick up a camera rig to take a few shots.

Now I simply stop the action, switch to camera mode. click the shots I need, then switch back to video mode and call for "action".

It's sweet!

And then when I get back to the office...All I have to do is pull the compact flash card, stick it in my reader and move the files to my hard drive. (I could also do it with the camera using USB or bluetooth if I chose to)

Nice and simple with great quality.

And I'm hoping within the next few months to take it up a notch by getting a Cine Lens Prime Lens for this baby:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...mm_T1_5_L.html

Jim_Gunn 06-02-2013 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grapesoda (Post 19651248)
only on a mac... ..

Interlaced video- if not de-interlaced at some point- will give jaggies on a progressive monitor whether it'd played on a Mac, PC, Android tablet, Ipad or smartphone.

georgeyw 06-02-2013 03:13 PM

What is a good video camera for getting footage of highspeed action? Ie car/bike/boat racing etc?

Have been using a now very old HDR-FX7 and would like to update, however have found DSLR (Canon 7D) to be not so great with focus on fast moving objects / light changes / multiple things happening in frame.

The FX7 has served me very well for the last 6+ years, shot draws full of tapes, however it is way past its expiry date now. Any recommendations?

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_Gunn (Post 19651825)
Interlaced video- if not de-interlaced at some point- will give jaggies on a progressive monitor whether it'd played on a Mac, PC, Android tablet, Ipad or smartphone.

I use vegas video and there are no issues with 60i

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgeyw (Post 19651843)
What is a good video camera for getting footage of highspeed action? Ie car/bike/boat racing etc?

Have been using a now very old HDR-FX7 and would like to update, however have found DSLR (Canon 7D) to be not so great with focus on fast moving objects / light changes / multiple things happening in frame.

The FX7 has served me very well for the last 6+ years, shot draws full of tapes, however it is way past its expiry date now. Any recommendations?

real happy with the sony ax2000 :2 cents:

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19651746)
Yep, it doesn't get much simpler.

One camera, one rig all on a compact flash card.

It makes life so much simpler. Especially for me...I no longer have to set my video rig down, disconnect myself from the power cord that goes from my belt batter to my onboard ring light and remove my headphones and then pick up a camera rig to take a few shots.

Now I simply stop the action, switch to camera mode. click the shots I need, then switch back to video mode and call for "action".

It's sweet!

And then when I get back to the office...All I have to do is pull the compact flash card, stick it in my reader and move the files to my hard drive. (I could also do it with the camera using USB or bluetooth if I chose to)

Nice and simple with great quality.

And I'm hoping within the next few months to take it up a notch by getting a Cine Lens Prime Lens for this baby:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...mm_T1_5_L.html

here's then info I got about focus and DSLR Robbie... the chips can handle focus but the glass can't keep up and what do you really think is gonna happen with a 2K lens anyway, right? so the guys at Brown and Sawyer told me that I could adapt an ENG lens over to the DSLR and then I could auto focus all day and all night... I forgot what it would cost for them to make the adapter, like 10K I think.... and the ENG zoom is about 70K... so I'm missing something here in spending 5K for glass for shooting video... I don't think it will pull auto focus at that price..

candyflip 06-02-2013 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bman (Post 19651681)
here is a really good one for a few k the even have a 16mm one for $995

way better investment then a Red:2 cents:

http://www.blackmagicdesign.com/prod...ccinemacamera/

http://www.blackmagicdesign.com/medi...nemacamera.jpg

I have one of the Pocket ones on order.

Robbie 06-02-2013 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grapesoda (Post 19651867)
here's then info I got about focus and DSLR Robbie... the chips can handle focus but the glass can't keep up and what do you really think is gonna happen with a 2K lens anyway, right? so the guys at Brown and Sawyer told me that I could adapt an ENG lens over to the DSLR and then I could auto focus all day and all night... I forgot what it would cost for them to make the adapter, like 10K I think.... and the ENG zoom is about 70K... so I'm missing something here in spending 5K for glass for shooting video... I don't think it will pull auto focus at that price..

No DSLR does continuous focus (I take that back...there is a cheaper Canon that does). But yes...the Cine prime lens will pull focus VERY fast. And not only that...but I prefer to tweak it with manual focus afterwards anyway...just in case (sometimes an autofocus focuses on the wrong thing...you can pull manual focus much more precisely)

As for the zoom...well I've never really used a zoom much anyway. Shooting porn is always in pretty close spaces and I prefer physically moving in and out on the subject anyway.

What happens with the zoom lens is you get lens distortion happening.

I usually keep mine zoomed BACK as far a possible anyway (at 24 mm) because the zoom is practically useless in a small room with 2 people fucking and you trying to shoot around it with lighting everywhere as well.

The Cine Prime lens is pretty much distortion free. And has the "roundest" lens of all (11 points).

Trust me, the glass is where it's at. :)

fitzmulti 06-02-2013 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19651888)

As for the zoom...well I've never really used a zoom much anyway. Shooting porn is always in pretty close spaces and I prefer physically moving in and out on the subject anyway.

THIS! :thumbsup:thumbsup
I keep telling people that...glad someone else subscribes to this as well.

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fitzmulti (Post 19651923)
THIS! :thumbsup:thumbsup
I keep telling people that...glad someone else subscribes to this as well.

I only use a touch of zoom if the lens shadows the ECU. I can fill frame with a clit :2 cents:

Robbie 06-02-2013 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grapesoda (Post 19651925)
I can fill frame with a clit :2 cents:

So can that prime lens.

The zoom causes distortion.

I know what you're saying...I'm just trying to explain to you that you are better off with the methods I'm telling you.

As for an adapter putting a continuous focus zoom on the DSLR...you need to keep a few things in mind: Power for the zoom. Where will it come from? Extra battery, lots of extra weight, etc.
Also the noisiness of the adapter and zoom lens.

Plus just the fact that the quality of the zoom lens your going to use coupled with that adapter will cause you to lose all the reason for using a DSLR to begin with.

Before you do anything like spending a fortune on an adapter to put a continuous focus zoom lens on a dslr...you should first try working with a DSLR and some good glass.
A big on-camera monitor (I use a DP6 six inch monitor from Small-HD) with your DSLR makes pulling focus manually a breeze.
And once you put a high F-Stop (14 or even 16) and set the ISO to around 1600 you won't need continuous focus anyway.

The entire field in the frame will be in focus. :)

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19651933)
So can that prime lens.

The zoom causes distortion.

I know what you're saying...I'm just trying to explain to you that you are better off with the methods I'm telling you.

As for an adapter putting a continuous focus zoom on the DSLR...you need to keep a few things in mind: Power for the zoom. Where will it come from? Extra battery, lots of extra weight, etc.
Also the noisiness of the adapter and zoom lens.

Plus just the fact that the quality of the zoom lens your going to use coupled with that adapter will cause you to lose all the reason for using a DSLR to begin with.

Before you do anything like spending a fortune on an adapter to put a continuous focus zoom lens on a dslr...you should first try working with a DSLR and some good glass.
A big on-camera monitor (I use a DP6 six inch monitor from Small-HD) with your DSLR makes pulling focus manually a breeze.
And once you put a high F-Stop (14 or even 16) and set the ISO to around 1600 you won't need continuous focus anyway.

The entire field in the frame will be in focus. :)

I got this motherfucker doing the deed for me:

http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/sto...52921665509346

BTW the client has said they are happy with a $600 HD camcorder... I only use the ax2000 because the little cameras are harder for me to hold. don't want to spend ANY money on camera mounts and sure don't want to fumble around with d800 shooting video... seriously the content is fine and rating highly with the members which is all I really want...

many many shooters have difficulty understanding that I don't shoot for me, there is nothing I want other than to shoot what the members want.. end result being I get the highest rating... how hard can it be right?

I might try some DSLR video sometime but to be real honest about it Robbie, on a daily basis I'm shooting 1500 +/- images and 1 hour +/- video... I don't even touch a motherfucking camera if I'm not working... ... I don't even take pictures with my stupid crappy phone

dyna mo 06-02-2013 05:19 PM

my d600 has continous focus in live mode recording video.

it's a bit slow but it does work.

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyna mo (Post 19651948)
my d600 has continous focus in live mode recording video.

it's a bit slow but it does work.

that's cool for sure...

Robbie 06-02-2013 05:29 PM

Grapesoda whatever works for you is cool.

I'm just giving ya my 2 cents after using video cams for years.

For me, getting on set and being able to shoot at higher quality with a simpler, easier, and faster set up has been like a gift from heaven.

But I'll admit that moving to DSLR for video wasn't an easy thing for me to decide to do. I had the exact same worries over focus as you do. And I was in my comfort zone with a vid cam and never had any complaints from the members.

But once I did it and took some time to figure it out correctly, I could never imagine shooting with my vid cam again.

dyna mo 06-02-2013 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19651933)
And once you put a high F-Stop (14 or even 16) and set the ISO to around 1600 you won't need continuous focus anyway.

The entire field in the frame will be in focus. :)


how much room does this give you to move back and forth?

candyflip 06-02-2013 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyna mo (Post 19651974)
how much room does this give you to move back and forth?

Plenty, because the entire frame stays in focus. You'll likely still be a bit shaky without some sort of rig, but everything should remain in focus when doing what he's saying here. You're obviously losing any DoF, but that's the point :winkwink:

Unless you're on sticks with preplanned shots, this is the best method for getting clear shots with a DSLR and not needing to constantly worry about pulling focus.

Grapesoda 06-02-2013 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19651963)
Grapesoda whatever works for you is cool.

I'm just giving ya my 2 cents after using video cams for years.

For me, getting on set and being able to shoot at higher quality with a simpler, easier, and faster set up has been like a gift from heaven.

But I'll admit that moving to DSLR for video wasn't an easy thing for me to decide to do. I had the exact same worries over focus as you do. And I was in my comfort zone with a vid cam and never had any complaints from the members.

But once I did it and took some time to figure it out correctly, I could never imagine shooting with my vid cam again.

bookmarking this thread

dyna mo 06-02-2013 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by candyflip (Post 19651984)
Plenty, because the entire frame stays in focus. You'll likely still be a bit shaky without some sort of rig, but everything should remain in focus when doing what he's saying here. You're obviously losing any DoF, but that's the point :winkwink:

Unless you're on sticks with preplanned shots, this is the best method for getting clear shots with a DSLR and not needing to constantly worry about pulling focus.

hey cool, appreciated.

what are your thoughts on focal length? i've got a 28mm, 60mm micro and 85mm, just keep with the 28?

candyflip 06-02-2013 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyna mo (Post 19652043)
hey cool, appreciated.

what are your thoughts on focal length? i've got a 28mm, 60mm micro and 85mm, just keep with the 28?

In conjunction with what Robbie said, I've been told that being as wide as possible is best. I'm not a fan of 18mm, but it works.

I'd bet you're most pleased with the results from the 28mm over the rest. I think you mentioned POV stuff at some point, but for best results at keeping everything in focus...this should all get you moving in the right direction for your own testing.

As someone already mentioned, it's a lot of user error. The more you do the more you learn the camera and the science.

dyna mo 06-02-2013 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by candyflip (Post 19652064)
In conjunction with what Robbie said, I've been told that being as wide as possible is best. I'm not a fan of 18mm, but it works.

I'd bet you're most pleased with the results from the 28mm over the rest. I think you mentioned POV stuff at some point, but for best results at keeping everything in focus...this should all get you moving in the right direction for your own testing.

As someone already mentioned, it's a lot of user error. The more you do the more you learn the camera and the science.

lol, yeah, i hear ya, paying models to learn the science has added up. :upsidedow

i guess i'm over-thinking the video, it should be the same science as stills re: dof, i can prolly use the 60mm, just move back, i would think the 85 is approaching telephoto and prolly would be tough to learn how to handle properly.

eipstudios 06-03-2013 02:59 AM

Any one using one of these?

Sony PMW-100 XDCAM HD422
http://static.bhphoto.com/images/ima...345/854243.jpg

Canon XF105 HD
http://static.bhphoto.com/images/ima...345/733533.jpg

candyflip 06-03-2013 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eipstudios (Post 19652345)
Any one using one of these?

Sony PMW-100 XDCAM HD422
http://static.bhphoto.com/images/ima...345/854243.jpg

This is the ENG version of the camera I have (FS100).

Actually, it isn't...this is:

http://www.eoshd.com/wp-content/uplo...8/nex-ea50.jpg

NEX-EA50

Grapesoda 06-03-2013 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by candyflip (Post 19652478)
This is the ENG version of the camera I have (FS100).

Actually, it isn't...this is:

http://www.eoshd.com/wp-content/uplo...8/nex-ea50.jpg

NEX-EA50



This camera is fantastic and will absolutely revolutionize and set the standard for event video cameras. As a former DSLR user, I feel relieved that I can now whip this camera out and instantly record short DoF video with servo zoom/ pro audio and a solid auto-focus as opposed to a clunky DSLR with loads of accessories that are sometimes risky and unreliable.

I spent the first few days with the EA50 running tests and comparing it to my older 1/3" sensor camera (Sony Z5U). It's clear that the larger APS-C sensor on the EA50 does preserve way more detail in the image and the depth of field is noticeably shallower. By default, the EA50 image is much more contrasty (like many DSLRs) and may seem to have a weak dynamic range. Messing with the picture profile settings helped quite a bit though.

The camera itself is very light - almost too light as there are no moving parts. I found wind to be an issue, even on a tripod. Since the camera is very long, it has a tendency to bounce in a seesaw motion. Having a solid tripod and more accessories to weigh the camera down does help, but its length and lightweight is definitely an issue for image stabilization.

Buttons are solid and accessible. Aside from the goofy picture/video mode button on the back of the camera, the EA50 as auto-iris and photo on the 'dumb' side, which is convenient. All other buttons (auto/manual, manual audio) are similar to any previous Sony ENG camera.

I answer many more questions about the camera including the SELP 18-200mm lens on my Vimeo page, just search NEX EA50 and look for the Z5U comparison.

I would have given this camera 5 stars but there are some serious problems with the image that hopefully Sony will work out that I note in "Cons".

VS

Warning Very Poor Low light performance!

If I could I would returning the Sony NEX-EA50U as it has very poor low light performance. My 3-chip Panasonic AG-AC160A had much better low light performance.

eipstudios 06-03-2013 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by candyflip (Post 19652478)
This is the ENG version of the camera I have (FS100).

Actually, it isn't...this is:

http://www.eoshd.com/wp-content/uplo...8/nex-ea50.jpg

NEX-EA50

Wow Sweat!!

dyna mo 06-03-2013 07:44 AM

dang, i couldn's shoot like i do with that camera, no upskirts with how long that is.

candyflip 06-03-2013 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyna mo (Post 19652667)
dang, i couldn's shoot like i do with that camera, no upskirts with how long that is.

Mine is basically just that box in the middle. Lots of people dislike the shape of it, but I love it.

NemesisEnforcer 06-03-2013 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_Gunn (Post 19650992)
The Sony EX-1 is my main HD video camera, which I love for the resolution the 1/2" chips provide, as opposed to the 1/3rd inch chips most prosumer cameras have. ...

I have the EX-1R and I can't say enough good things about the EX-1 line. BTW, I saw your post on the pro forum about audio settings a few years ago. I'm sure you have your answer by now.

JP-pornshooter 06-03-2013 10:26 AM

Robbie, I cant help wondering..
you set it for aperture priority mode at f16 or so to obtain the very shallow dof and get most the scene in focus.
1600 iso
you shoot ambient lighted set.. which is pretty dark by our standards.
what kind of film speed does that produce?

btw, cool to see the questions and answers here - some of this stuff is good knowledge.
fwiw i shoot at 30 fps, someone smarter than me told me that interlaced is a bunch of half frames which can seriously fuck your stuff at the wrong lighting set up so i stay the hell away from it.

marcop 06-03-2013 11:50 AM

I tried shooting porn with a DSLR, but I like the camera to move in and out of the action during a scene, and that's incredibly hard to do with a DSLR. So I shoot video with a video camera, and stills with a DSLR.

BTW, the only glamcore material shot on DSLR I've seen that I've liked has been solo scenes (e.g., some stuff Jay-Rock's posted here). The b/g or g/g stuff always seems to lack heat, and the fact that the camera is sitting back on a tripod capturing not just the beautiful models but also the beautiful location that the producer spent a ton of money on, removes the viewer from the action, IMHO.

candyflip 06-03-2013 12:24 PM

Anyone shooting with a DSLR could benefit from a monopod with a nice head and viewfinder.

Robbie 06-03-2013 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP-pornshooter (Post 19652930)
Robbie, I cant help wondering..
you set it for aperture priority mode at f16 or so to obtain the very shallow dof and get most the scene in focus.
1600 iso
you shoot ambient lighted set.. which is pretty dark by our standards.
what kind of film speed does that produce?

When you say "ambient lighted set" I'm not sure what you're saying. All lighting on video is "ambient".
When I'm shooting a porn scene my "ambient" lighting is 2 Kino Flo panels, one overhead Kino Flo panel, and a Kino Flo ringlight on the camera.

The little video I posted in this thread was indeed shot with just a normal old light turned on overhead in my bedroom.

But it's all "ambient" light. :)

When I switch to camera mode...I'm wirelessly triggering 3 580EX speedlights so the photography is NOT ambient, if that's what you meant.

Robbie 06-03-2013 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcop (Post 19653053)
I tried shooting porn with a DSLR, but I like the camera to move in and out of the action during a scene, and that's incredibly hard to do with a DSLR.

I shoot everything and move all around with my Canon 5D when I'm shooting a porn scene. Once you have the thing in focus (and use a high f stop to get the entire frame in focus) you can move in and out all you want to.

Check out this video (I use this same Ready Rig when I shoot a porn scene) and watch the guy using a DSLR shooting gorgeous video on the move (the footage shifts back and forth from a 2nd cam following him and then the footage from his own camera POV):

JP-pornshooter 06-03-2013 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie (Post 19653295)
When you say "ambient lighted set" I'm not sure what you're saying. All lighting on video is "ambient".
When I'm shooting a porn scene my "ambient" lighting is 2 Kino Flo panels, one overhead Kino Flo panel, and a Kino Flo ringlight on the camera.

The little video I posted in this thread was indeed shot with just a normal old light turned on overhead in my bedroom.

But it's all "ambient" light. :)

When I switch to camera mode...I'm wirelessly triggering 3 580EX speedlights so the photography is NOT ambient, if that's what you meant.

i meant natural light, the sample you provided was shot using "available" light, no lights added. i was wondering what speed the camera selected at those aperture priority parameters:
iso 1600
f16

Robbie 06-03-2013 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP-pornshooter (Post 19653345)
i meant natural light, the sample you provided was shot using "available" light, no lights added. i was wondering what speed the camera selected at those aperture priority parameters:
iso 1600
f16

I don't know...I shot that a couple of months ago and since it was shooting video I didn't really bother to look at all the properties that I normally would look at when shooting a picture. (didn't shoot any pics of that...it was just a viral vid for youtube)

But as you can see...with me just letting the camera choose that when it auto focuses, it shoots plenty bright enough for a "normal" scene (I'm like you and want things way more lit up when I'm shooting a fuck scene so there are no shadows and you can see the penetration, etc.)

DWB 06-03-2013 04:17 PM

Fantastic thread!!!!

Robbie, your set up looks great. Do you have a stabilization rig for your cam? If so, how to you manage upskirts or down low / looking up shots?

Grapesoda 06-03-2013 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWB (Post 19653416)
Fantastic thread!!!!

Robbie, your set up looks great. Do you have a stabilization rig for your cam? If so, how to you manage upskirts or down low / looking up shots?

yes very much great 'usable' info in here... what GFY was meant to do for us other than amuse the shit out of that is thanks guys...


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