many people don't care for the shallow DOF, many owners don't care for the 'premium cost' of shooting with DSLR :2 cents:

this might seem strange to you with your life experiences.... I actually know what the fuck I'm doing :2 cents:

BTW that's Regan...

as a porn surfer, i can't stand it. they don't know what they're doing. + i've noticed many shooters keep their dslr autofocus on auto, so the cam will focus on the closest object to the screen, i.e, a girls foot is in focus but her pussy/ass/face are not. nor do many seem to take into account what the actual dof is for a particular fstop/focal distance.

i will never understand putting an emphasis on what's NOT in focus.

In a TOTALLY unrelated issue...
I just did a twitter authorization thing where they have a CAPTCHA-like thing.
And the two words were:
Grape Soda
No lie!

a little misguided they shoot the same only you have a little more control over depth of field with the lenses on a dslr.

however for the most part you have a lot of limitations such as manual focus, camera control and button control manipulation.

Normally most guys use the dslr on a tripod and so you have to spend a lot more time shooting the scene. prob 3x more.

you could conceivably get close to the exact same thing with a Video Camera with manual control of the lens if it were on a tripod too.


All things being equal it has more to do with the operator then anything.:2 cents:

Leave it at 60 and forget about it. Stay in 30p its best for internet content.

might try that... shoot 60i now and 60th

pretty much I guess... I shoot handheld on the fly... not even gonna mess with DSLR unless they pay me to ..

LOL is he still around? He may have fucked more girls than Ron Jeremy!

Hey Grapesoda....I switched over to my Canon EOS 5D MK 3 about a year ago.

I have my Panasonic HPX 170 HD vid camera gathering mothballs now.

There is no comparison in quality. And the only thing you need to do to have clear focus across the field is use a high F stop on the DSLR.

I shoot video in Aperture Priority mode. Set the F stop up super high. Then you can use the "Auto Focus" to bring the shutter speed to where it needs to be to compensate.
Then you are in focus. And there is no depth of field.

And between the lens and the DSLR chips...it will absolutely blow the vid cam away.

As an added bonus...you only need to have one camera on you. Switch it to Camera mode to shoot your stills. Then switch to Video mode to shoot the video.

This is shot with Canon 5D Mk3 with the settings the way I just described using nothing but the normal light in my bedroom (keep in mind it's already edited and compressed, the raw footage is even crisper):

The video is 3:51 long. Other than stopping to talk about dialogue...it took no time to shoot at all. I think we walked in the room and it was completed in about 6 minutes total.

No lighting set up, took about 2 seconds to focus. Just super easy.

And the "blacks" are really black. Which makes the contrast and coloring so much better than what any prosumer vid cam can ever achieve.

The only way to get to that quality would be to drop some serious, serious money on a RED...

Anyway, just wanted to chime in. A lot of "shooters" act all mysterious about shooting video with a DSLR.

But if you use one for just a few minutes you figure out how incredibly simple it is. And when I am shooting a real scene with it and using my kino flo lighting and taking my time to really get the shots...it's just fantastic.

that's a sharp example, robbie, what do you use for image stabilization?

Nothing.

It's just that damn simple. I did that video completely hand held.

Now, when I shoot our scenes...I use the Ready Rig with my camera mounted on it and microphones and a ring light (in addition to the banks of Kinos).

Here is the Ready Rig: http://www.albacamerasupport.com/

It's fucking amazing and worth every penny I paid for it.

does your lens have image stabilization? you've got pretty stable hands? it's something i struggle with as i learn video.

Robbie,
That panasonic is not 1920 x 1080 and it uses the outdated DVC PROHD Codec.
The newer cameras use 1920 x 1080 res over 1440x 1080 and better codecs.
You will be surprised what you get out of even a $400 consumer hd camera...

:1orglaugh:1orglaugh:1orglaugh

thank you Robbie... and the audio?

here is a really good one for a few k the even have a 16mm one for $995

way better investment then a Red:2 cents:

http://www.blackmagicdesign.com/prod...ccinemacamera/

http://www.blackmagicdesign.com/medi...nemacamera.jpg

jeez, that tripod head prolly costs $500!

On that I just used the "shitty" camera mic.

Doing a real scene: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...t_Shotgun.html

No, it doesn't. This is the lens I used:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ephoto_EF.html

i shot 60i forever because the look fit my needs. Now days. I shoot with a 5d and xf105 both manual mode. It's a work in progress and i don't have it quite 100% down. Super close though.

Both cameras at shutter of 60, FPS 30, zero ISO, and Fstop at 4 on the 5d and the XF always always changing between 2-4

The XF is badass but tricky and i don't have it quite mastered yet.

I'm not a great shooter but strangely it works for my site so it's fine.

One thing that's really cool. i've reached out in the past to 3 GFY veterans and all replied back fast with insight every single time. Jay Rock, Dean and Just Dave. Shouts to you guys...

60i is good for recording fast motion and slowing it down cranking the shutter up in 30p will give the effect that you see in alot of feature film fight scenes. Going to 125 is definitely going to cause you to lose an Fstop of light as mentioned previously in this thread. I wouldnt use it unless you are trying to shoot really fast movement or get really smooth slow motion. I shoot DSLR at 60 shutter speed in 30p and 50 shutter speed for 24p. Most of my big clients I have shot for prefer the raw footage in 30p. You can break the rules and go under or course to let more light in but be careful about motion blur if you have fast moving subjects. I tend to crank the ISO up as far as 1600 on the 5D Mark III & shoot with a higher FSTOP to get more depth of field. I only go under 5.6 if my subject isn't moving around to much. Rack focusing constantly is a pain. Shoot at a high ISO and crank it to f8 if you can for a more forgiving focus area.

you record audio straight to the camera?

Yep, it doesn't get much simpler.

One camera, one rig all on a compact flash card.

It makes life so much simpler. Especially for me...I no longer have to set my video rig down, disconnect myself from the power cord that goes from my belt batter to my onboard ring light and remove my headphones and then pick up a camera rig to take a few shots.

Now I simply stop the action, switch to camera mode. click the shots I need, then switch back to video mode and call for "action".

It's sweet!

And then when I get back to the office...All I have to do is pull the compact flash card, stick it in my reader and move the files to my hard drive. (I could also do it with the camera using USB or bluetooth if I chose to)

Nice and simple with great quality.

And I'm hoping within the next few months to take it up a notch by getting a Cine Lens Prime Lens for this baby:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...mm_T1_5_L.html

Interlaced video- if not de-interlaced at some point- will give jaggies on a progressive monitor whether it'd played on a Mac, PC, Android tablet, Ipad or smartphone.

What is a good video camera for getting footage of highspeed action? Ie car/bike/boat racing etc?

Have been using a now very old HDR-FX7 and would like to update, however have found DSLR (Canon 7D) to be not so great with focus on fast moving objects / light changes / multiple things happening in frame.

The FX7 has served me very well for the last 6+ years, shot draws full of tapes, however it is way past its expiry date now. Any recommendations?

I use vegas video and there are no issues with 60i

real happy with the sony ax2000 :2 cents:

here's then info I got about focus and DSLR Robbie... the chips can handle focus but the glass can't keep up and what do you really think is gonna happen with a 2K lens anyway, right? so the guys at Brown and Sawyer told me that I could adapt an ENG lens over to the DSLR and then I could auto focus all day and all night... I forgot what it would cost for them to make the adapter, like 10K I think.... and the ENG zoom is about 70K... so I'm missing something here in spending 5K for glass for shooting video... I don't think it will pull auto focus at that price..

I have one of the Pocket ones on order.

No DSLR does continuous focus (I take that back...there is a cheaper Canon that does). But yes...the Cine prime lens will pull focus VERY fast. And not only that...but I prefer to tweak it with manual focus afterwards anyway...just in case (sometimes an autofocus focuses on the wrong thing...you can pull manual focus much more precisely)

As for the zoom...well I've never really used a zoom much anyway. Shooting porn is always in pretty close spaces and I prefer physically moving in and out on the subject anyway.

What happens with the zoom lens is you get lens distortion happening.

I usually keep mine zoomed BACK as far a possible anyway (at 24 mm) because the zoom is practically useless in a small room with 2 people fucking and you trying to shoot around it with lighting everywhere as well.

The Cine Prime lens is pretty much distortion free. And has the "roundest" lens of all (11 points).

Trust me, the glass is where it's at. :)

THIS! :thumbsup:thumbsup
I keep telling people that...glad someone else subscribes to this as well.

I only use a touch of zoom if the lens shadows the ECU. I can fill frame with a clit :2 cents:

So can that prime lens.

The zoom causes distortion.

I know what you're saying...I'm just trying to explain to you that you are better off with the methods I'm telling you.

As for an adapter putting a continuous focus zoom on the DSLR...you need to keep a few things in mind: Power for the zoom. Where will it come from? Extra battery, lots of extra weight, etc.
Also the noisiness of the adapter and zoom lens.

Plus just the fact that the quality of the zoom lens your going to use coupled with that adapter will cause you to lose all the reason for using a DSLR to begin with.

Before you do anything like spending a fortune on an adapter to put a continuous focus zoom lens on a dslr...you should first try working with a DSLR and some good glass.
A big on-camera monitor (I use a DP6 six inch monitor from Small-HD) with your DSLR makes pulling focus manually a breeze.
And once you put a high F-Stop (14 or even 16) and set the ISO to around 1600 you won't need continuous focus anyway.

The entire field in the frame will be in focus. :)

I got this motherfucker doing the deed for me:

http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/sto...52921665509346

BTW the client has said they are happy with a $600 HD camcorder... I only use the ax2000 because the little cameras are harder for me to hold. don't want to spend ANY money on camera mounts and sure don't want to fumble around with d800 shooting video... seriously the content is fine and rating highly with the members which is all I really want...

many many shooters have difficulty understanding that I don't shoot for me, there is nothing I want other than to shoot what the members want.. end result being I get the highest rating... how hard can it be right?

I might try some DSLR video sometime but to be real honest about it Robbie, on a daily basis I'm shooting 1500 +/- images and 1 hour +/- video... I don't even touch a motherfucking camera if I'm not working... ... I don't even take pictures with my stupid crappy phone

my d600 has continous focus in live mode recording video.

it's a bit slow but it does work.

that's cool for sure...

Grapesoda whatever works for you is cool.

I'm just giving ya my 2 cents after using video cams for years.

For me, getting on set and being able to shoot at higher quality with a simpler, easier, and faster set up has been like a gift from heaven.

But I'll admit that moving to DSLR for video wasn't an easy thing for me to decide to do. I had the exact same worries over focus as you do. And I was in my comfort zone with a vid cam and never had any complaints from the members.

But once I did it and took some time to figure it out correctly, I could never imagine shooting with my vid cam again.

how much room does this give you to move back and forth?

Plenty, because the entire frame stays in focus. You'll likely still be a bit shaky without some sort of rig, but everything should remain in focus when doing what he's saying here. You're obviously losing any DoF, but that's the point :winkwink:

Unless you're on sticks with preplanned shots, this is the best method for getting clear shots with a DSLR and not needing to constantly worry about pulling focus.