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#1 |
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mileage vs year when purchasing a preowned car?
I'm looking at some preowned bmw 328i/335i coupes anyone have advice on what I should be looking for in terms of mileage to year? Ive come down to a 2007 with 46k a 2008 with 36k and a 2011 with 48k
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#2 |
Let's do some business!
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Average person drives 15k miles a year. You could use that as a baseline if you wish.
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#4 |
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on that model BMW I'd go more by the number of boogers on the steering wheel vs. lingering cologne smell.
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#5 |
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btw, I'm only gettin back atcha for dropping that disgusting tofu bacon pic in my stuffing thread.
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#6 | |
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#7 |
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#8 |
Exploiting human weakness
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If you are buying a used car then skip the dealers and find a guy who does wholesale and goes to the auctions or buys trade in cars from dealerships. You can save a shitload of money and then who the fuck cares of it is certified
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#9 | ||
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#10 |
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You won't be, car makers usually support their cars for 20 years minimum, 1994 would be when that would maybe start to be an issue but a 3 series BMW will have parts made for it forever and ever.
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#11 |
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12-15k/year is average. My own car 4 years and 2 months old only has 32-33k on it but that's cause I live in Chicago so anything I need to do is within a few miles max. Would be even lower but I've run the bitch to Tampa 2-3 times around Christmas.
If those models are similar in features I'd probably be looking at the 2011 as well as I'd rather have something newer that was actually driven then something 7-8 years old with low mileage as odds are if low it was city miles and city miles are horrible for cars, stop/go/idling etc... where highway miles aren't as hard on the car and blow the bitch out. ![]() |
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#12 | ||
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#13 |
So Fucking Banned
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Check the BMW owner forums. Read up on these cars and see what the weak links are.
I'm not familiar with BMW, but it looks like 07, 08 and 11 are from the same generation (2005-2011). Again, not familiar with BMW, but there usually aren't major mechanical upgrades throughout the span of a single generation. If the car was engineered well to begin with, the first year and the fourth year are mechanically the same (differing only in minor cosmetics). You can really use that to your advantage when used car shopping since cars go down in value moreso by year than mileage. On the other hand, if there has been desirable improvements throughout the generation to correct mechanical issues then you would want to get the last car of the generation. |
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#14 | |
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#15 |
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Oh but seriously whichever one you get, clean interior real good with some anti biotic cleaners. Everything you can wipe down!
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#16 |
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Your biggest concern is ensuring that you have a good mechanic to maintain them. I find that the euro cars generally don't break down as much (compared to their North American counterparts). But when they do, they are a lot more expensive to diagnose and fix. Find someone who specializes in Bimmers. It will save you money in the long run
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#17 |
dumb libs love censorship
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mileage is meaningless. seriously. A 10K mile car owned by a punk is a much worse buy than a 100K mile car owned by a boring person.
most important is who owned the car, & second to that, the quality of construction of the car. As you are looking at BMW, the quality is solid. Its the previous owner you should be most concerned about. given that dealers have little to no knowledge of previous owners, then you must look at the quality of the dealer. You must buy from a solid dealer that wont rip you off, or bullshit some reason they cant honor a warranty. Most dealers are shady as fuck. so you need to be careful about who you buy from. & dont force yourself into a decision you are not 100% on. There are always more cars coming up for sale, every week. GL. ![]() |
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#18 | ||
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#19 |
Please dont fuck animals
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See if you can buy from a guy that works at home. I average about 6000 - 6500 miles per year, and I usually own two or three vehicles and split that up a little.
My current 2014 370z that I bought in early August, has just a little over 1800 miles on it now but I've been driving it more than usual because it's new and fun to drive, but still just putting a little over 120 miles per week on it. |
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#20 | |
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#21 | |
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#22 |
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When you resell the car the 2011 will still be in the same decade and seem much newer to prospective buyers. But without knowing the prices it's hard to give a good opinion.
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#23 |
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Besides the years & miles, it also depends HOW it was driven. Did it see salt roads in winter? Did it tow heavy loads? Crappy roads? Was the driver prone to gunning it and stopping fast, etc?
Since so many other things can create wear and tear, try first finding the car with the age and range you are fairly comfortable in, then get it inspect yourself. Then take even minor things to the buyer and use those to get a lower price on the car. This way you'll save money getting a reliable car that you really want.
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#24 |
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I've had alot of bmws and am very, very familiar with them. I actually even code them.
Generally, the larger the engine in the car the lower the mileage per year is (at least in europe). It's very common for a 2007-2008 M3 here to have 50k km on it, but a 320d from 2007 will have 250k on it. Go with the 2011. 46k miles is still fuck all. I have roughly that on my 550i (also 2011). It will have the newer CIC navigation with harddrive, which works *much* better - more responsive and much better graphics. A car that sits breaks more then a car that is driven... smaller chance it was in an accident too - it's rare to find a car from 2007 to 2008 that wasn't painted somewhere... on a scale of 7-8 years something MUST have happened.
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#25 |
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the 2011 is 22
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#26 |
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to be more specific i think this is the one Certified 2011 BMW 328i Coupe 3 For Sale in Los Angeles CA | Stock: TBE755434
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#27 | |
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#28 |
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thats one of the most illogical things ive heard. Are you aware you can drop off any car, no matter what year it was made, at a garage? You can even let them check what's wrong with it, buy the parts on ebay yourself, and let them fix it. You can find brand new parts for pretty much any car nowadays, it's all still being made.
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#29 | |
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#30 | |
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2. a tow truck drive told most of his pick ups were mercs and bmw's with electric issues |
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#31 |
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I have a truck with nearly 170k miles on it, runs like a champ.
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#32 |
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#33 |
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You didn't say which year was which.
I had a 335 for 4 years so have a pretty good understanding of the cars and what goes wrong. ** edit Just saw an earlier post, the 2011 is the 328. Re the 335 models 2008 > 07 (there were early production niggles) Most issues (hpfp, turbo wastegates) now covered by warranty extension. From the original car build date whichever arrives first HPFP: 120k/10yrs Wastegates: 82k/8yrs wastegates, so they're close to expiring for an 07. Elec waterpump can be an issue. They usually go at 60 to 75k without fail, sometimes earlier. In built obsolescence maybe ;) Just be prepared for it, $1300 at the dealer. 6 hours on your garage floor and $600 DIY. Sometimes it messes the battery up at the same time. You shouldnt install a reg battery from walmart if it does. They have been known to explode, bmw approved battery and you should get it registered via the dealers system. Unless you need 4 doors, the e92 coupe holds its value better and it looks nicer. Color scheme and toys also make a difference come resale. TBH, id go for the 2011 328
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#34 |
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I'm now down to these two:
Certified 2011 BMW 328i Coupe 3 For Sale in Los Angeles CA | Stock: TBE755434 Used 2012 BMW 328i Coupe For Sale | BMW North America warranty runs on both for 6 years or 100k
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#35 | |
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#36 |
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There's mention on their website that the CPO warranty is calculated from build date. So a 6 year warranty really means 3 years left on that 2011 by the looks of things. Check through the warranty for exemptions and remember you likely paying for it anyway, since cpo or not, they are not going to build 3 years cover in for no profit.
The 2011 was more than likely leased originally (handed back a few miles short of the original 50k bmw warranty) the paperwork will confirm either way. 328's don't tend to get driven as hard as 335's but if it was leased it depends on how the lessee treated the car knowing they were going to hand it back.
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#37 | |
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I didn't like BevHills bmw. Maybe they are better now at the new facility.
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#38 | |
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#39 |
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I have a friend that has a shop 500 meters from my house that rebuilds bmw. Practically only does bmw and i'm there once a week or so to visit, so i've seen *ALOT* of these cars completely stripped down to bare metal and fixed.
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#40 |
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Certified 2011 BMW 328i Coupe 3 For Sale in Los Angeles CA | Stock: TBE755434
this is the winner ![]()
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#41 |
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A car with lesser miles is best naturally but there are plenty of owners that never service cars. A car with 30k miles or less over 2 years would be good enough to be resold at the dealer anything more would just be wholesaled. The millage over first 2 years is all that matters for valuations other wise you just buying a cheap car. I had a Baur and although a classic it is an old car so it really has no real value it is just a cheap car.
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#42 |
So Fucking Banned
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I find these guys are a lot more knowledgeable about cars than the average GFYer
Official Kelley Blue Book New Car and Used Car Prices and Values |
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#43 | |
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#44 |
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Auto auctions can be a crapshoot. Lots of repos end up at auto auctions. Due to the prior owners' financial hardships, those cars tend to have problems from delayed repairs and maintenance.
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#45 | |
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#46 |
Work Work Work
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Owned a 316i, fun ride. BMW makes great cars. Good luck!
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#47 |
So Fucking Banned
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id go for the mileage, year model is useless if it is daily driven compared to a car who is bought years back but seldom used.
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#48 | |
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