Grapesoda

RyuLion

Nice!!!!!!!

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DBS.US

Every nice find

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AsianDivaGirlsWebDude

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tony286

Very cool thx

VikingMan

that is a really amazing tool for noobs

alexchechs

Great find

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baddog

That is cool. Thank you from a noob.

Spunky

Pretty slick man

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woj

pretty neat

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Chosen

Nice

cooldude7

awesome.,

ixtractor

awesome,thanks for sharing that!!!

cooldude7

and finally i managed to shoot still picture of that rotating thing .

AsianDivaGirlsWebDude

Hey Tony...Paisano...wtf?!?

You are more than 4k posts over 50k, and you are still friggin' green!?!



I would be seeing red by now!!!

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martinsc

very nice!

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Django

Great tool

DEA - banned for life

wow this is so awesome !!! cant wait to show this too all my friends !!! yes yes yes !!!..im in heaven !!!!

Grapesoda

sure beats shooting 1000 rolls of film to figure it out like I had too

Scott McD

Very nice!

I still suck though even using that.

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Grapesoda

stuck on what? the larger the whole the more light comes in.. (aperture/F stop) the bigger the whole, the less depth of field (DOF)

F2 eyes in focus, tip of nose out, ears out... F16 eyes in, hair in, ears in, nose in, every fucking zip, in etc...

for F2 raise the shutter speed, bring the light down. for F16 turn the light up, slow the shutter speed.

the faster the whole opens and closes, more or less light comes in.. (shutter speed) the faster the shutter the better the action freezes, BUT you need more light. (open the aperture, turn up the ASA, use artificial light)

film speed (ISO/ASA) the more sensitive the film speed the less light needed however the less quality there is.

these are the basics that go into all photography... then you get into the tricky shit, like lenses and focal lengths

DEA - banned for life

yeah i can see its a usefull tool..my reply was just a response to some of the other posters who dropped there photography cum loads in here

dyna mo

i don't understand what you are trying to say here????

Grapesoda

really? the bigger the aperture (whole) the less depth of field

Nikki_Licks

Nice find, thanks for sharing

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dyna mo

oh. yeah, i get that. i wasn't getting the "nose in, ears out, every fucking zip" comment.

but now that we're on the same page, doesn't this require dof preview? i've never been comfortable using that, even with my old slr cameras.

baddog

How does this work when dealing with digital since there is no "film"?

Grapesoda

sensitivty of the sensor... think it's ISO.. turn it up and down. what camera body do you use?

baddog

Canon T1i. I know how to turn it up and down, just not positive when I should adjust and if I adjust it, does that mean I should adjust f-stop [or something else] at the same time?

I usually find myself using "auto" for that unless I am using a tripod.

NemesisEnforcer

Very nice.

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Grapesoda

if you are not shooting on the manual setting just leave the camera on 'auto ISO' pretty sure it will have one... shoot on 'p' with the flash up... not sure what canon calls 'program' I shoot nikons... maybe auto???

think maybe if you shoot auto with out the flash NOT up the shutter will go to slow causing motion blur... so I usually shoot on S priority or T for a canon guy if I'm fucking around... not less the 125th.

if you want to control your depth of field shoot on 'A' which is aperture... say you want a pic of buddy with the background oof (out of focus) go to A and set the F stop to 4 or 5, depending on your lens... 2.8 be best for sure... problem is kit glass isn't fast glass and it starts adding up buying fast glass... blah blah blash etc etc... (boring boring boring)

thing to do is fuck around with that app I posted a link to then try the stuff on your camera..... ISO is basically to add light, in situation of having plenty of light, shoot at 50-200 ISO, don;t worry about it... when you need light, bump the ISO up... I shoot at 3200-5000 ISO with out issue anytime I want/need too...

it's a confusing mess for sure... just been dealing with this crap on a daily basis for 15-16 years so eventually it starts to be workable even if it doesn't always make sense... I learned to think of it like this: 'light falls on the film' once I heard it put like that it started making more sense to me... so now I know there is a 'hole' which I control with size and how fast it opens and shuts to let 'light fall on the film'

photography is 'painting with light' the job of a photographer is to create interesting stories with light using composition and contrast. i. e. control of the shadows and highlights. so I see what the story is, control the fall of light.... not enough light, turn up the ISO or augment the light naturally or unnatrually... too much light: negative fill (pull back the light.)

baddog

I find myself using A-Dep most often for say parties, where it is more important to get the background action. Auto-ISO is my standard.

When I go to shoot waterfalls and stuff like that I experiment with AV and adjust the ISO and F-stop.

I use a Sigma 18-200 most of the time, which is a 5.6 lens. Someone told me I should go two steps up, so I have been using 7.1 on the F.

Right? Wrong?

john FVC

Lenses have a sweet spot especially telephotos. A telephoto lens has to do a very tough job and it cannot be perfect across the whole telephoto range so there tends to be a sweet spot with them. F8 will usually be a good rule of thumb to produce the sharpest images that the lens can produce. The focal length too will have a sweet spot or range, but that's very dependent on the make and type of lens.

Prime lenses have a fixed focal length and they generally will produce the sharpest images as they are not having to work over varying focal lengths.

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JustDaveXxx

Nice!

I can forward this to a few of my friends that are new to photography and always have questions.


Thanx BM

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seeandsee

i'l bookmark this, dont have time now to test it

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The Ghost

Cool link

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Grapesoda

I shoot with artificial lights in heavily controlled situations, or in augmented natural light where I pick and choose the locations so I have the most control possible. since I shoot primarily for money I have little room to 'gamble' on the outcome...

I just looked and the sigma, it's a 3.5-6.3 meaning the that aperture changes depending on the amount of zoom which is fine for a lot of stuff... just not what I do.

Aaron M is the guy to tell you how to shoot watefalls... my thought is 5.6 at 1/2 second to get interesting 'flow' on the water... (need a tripod for sure with that...)

for parties I would use program w/flash on 1000-2000 asa or someting... (not sure what program is called on canon's) maybe with rear curtain. on camera flash is not my area of expereice at all.... very seldom use flash. maybe 2-3 tmes in the last few years.

you seem to have some expendable income so why not drop 2K into a real nice piece of glass? say the 70-200 2.8 or the 85 1.2. you'll be really surprised at the difference in your work. shooting at F2 will rock your world... sure rocks mine ;)

baddog

A 70-200 would have to be for distance only. I have a 55-250 and that is really limiting for me. I used it a couple weeks ago when I was shooting Horsetail Falls, because I read some guy's article where he said I would need that kind of range. He must have been set up a lot further away than I was, because 250 had me way too close. I used the 200 the next couple of times I went there.

Grapesoda

I use 70-200 for headshots and shooting girls at tims.... I have a 200 and 200-400. those are for people as well

if you want to shoot landscapes get like a 50 or something, maybe... I have a 17-35 that is supposed to be a great landscape lens but I don't shoot landscapes... I shoot people.

the pics I just googled of horsetail falls look better to me from a distance, the images where you can see the hill as well


http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&r...w=1124&bih=637

baddog

No way would a 50 work for Horsetail. These guys were even closer than I was.



You have a lot more experience than I, so I guess you can use those zoom lenses in close situations. I might be doing a red carpet for an awards party tomorrow, and thought about trying the 55-250 for it, but I don't know how I would be able to get any full length shots with it.

I will have to find some crowds to play with.

Grapesoda

for red carpet I would use a 24-70, but I use full frame and your cam has cropped sensor so the lenses are longer and 24-70 would be 36-105 or something like that which is to long... so your 18-200 would be the best best with the long end of your lens to grab headshots a the wide for full body stuff. just crank the iso up to +/-1600 so the slow glass will have enough light.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/spec...on_eos500d.asp

the guy to chat up is JFK

baddog

Yeah, the 18-200 is pretty much perfect for quick change of from head to full. I can adjust the exposure compensation (I do) to make it lighter. Would I be better off leaving that at zero and adjust iso instead?

Grapesoda

I tend to shoot in manual, so I would grab a quick meter read through the lens and then go to manual, set the camera up and grab a few pics... check the LCD to see how it looks etc... adjust what's needed and shoot who ever hits that spot that I need to shoot and guesstimate anything close to the area else until I setup for another position. with practice only takes a few seconds to dial in.. not good for sports but great for events where subjects are moving through a predefined area... like a sniper

while I have used exposure compensation in the past, since I shoot manual, I adjust the F stop... here's the thing about high ISO.... usually less saturation and more noise in the shadows. I don't mind the less saturaation... I shoot at 500 ISO as my normal setting and go way the fuck higher as needed. so looking at your camera specs I see that 1600 ISO is a real probability so I would assume the 1600 ISO is okay and looks good. I would try that. there are plug-ins to clean up any distracting shadow noise that work very well.

look at some of your images in post and see what ISO's your camera has been shooting at in 'auto ISO' that will give you some insight into what's going on. it's difficult for me to trust my camera to figure stuff out although the damn thing is probably smarter than I am.

another thing for me is I know for a fact that everything I shoot is going through photoshop so I only need to be close on a exposure and white balance... focus/composition has to be spot on but everything else is 'close is good enough, and if it's really fucked up it's a black and white' ...hehehe

the main thing is this tho.... if the stuff looks good enough the way you do it now... fuck it... just keep doing it that way photography turns into an expensive nightmare when you get the "fuck, it's gotta be perfect' bug. trust me on that... been there, done that.... not doing it again. I shoot to my target audience expectations.

baddog

I don't treat my pics at all, unless someone sends me an email asking for a certain pic, I might touch it up for them a little via an automated program. I don't have time for that.

As far as settings, I just try to get a variety of input. Actually, during the course of this discussion I happened upon an article about a new feature on the T1i, that I never even looked at. I wish it was daylight so I could test it outside.

Grapesoda

more: what exposure compensation does is adjust the meter your in camera, that's all... nothing magical or tricky. you can do that yourself shooting manual or raising the ISO... see BD it's all a weird balance or f stop, shutter speed and sensor sensitivity. and reciprocity.

it works like this in a perfect world: f stops goes from 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45, 64, etc and those numbers come from this, if the subject is 8 feet from the light and moves 3 feet closer to the light, you will have to set the stop to F11 to gain the same exposuer... (and here's where it gets real shitty, the damn cameras go from 5.6, 7.1, 8 etc... )

so now here you are at F8 @ 125th and suddenly the light is at F11... so change the expossuer to F11 OR change the shutter to 250th. double the shutter takes an F stop off. i.e. the hole is the same size yet the hole is open only half as long.... see?

then you have the 3rd variable: ISO. so you are at F8 @ 125th at 200 ISO.. whoops F11, set the stop to F11 or set the shutter to 250th OR set the ISO to 100... see? it's a big pain in the ass for sure but those are the rules do you see how it's moving now?

and it's very difficult for me to write this out because I'm am a bit dyslexic but I think I have got it right for you... I do it instinctively from practice but to write about it I might get it backwards... even sometimes setting my camera up I have to talk it out with myself..

Grapesoda

JFK and Aaron M would be the guys to ask about stuff like that... I'm basically a studio shooter with some natural light under rigidly controlled conditions. and I'm sure there are others guys here that would know as well, just happened to think of those 2 off hand.

Chris

this is a pretty awesome thread
bm bardley dropping awesome info

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BAKO

Good find

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